Text Andres Damm & Sarah Wetzlmayr
Gourmet restaurants as aesthetic works of art in which architecture, design and immersive dining experiences play a central role: From the spectacularly designed Iris in the Norwegian fjord to the unique staging at Alchemist in Copenhagen and the almost mystical Ultraviolet in Shanghai—here, every room is a stage, every dish a chapter in a multi-layered narrative. These restaurants are not just culinary experiences, but multifaceted aesthetic experiences that demonstrate the effect that a perfectly curated interplay of staging, space, materiality and taste can have.
The increasing appreciation of indulgence in the form of epicurean experiences has been quite revolutionary over the last two decades—even if some concepts have only had a very short half-life, quite a few food trends have come to stay. And although the term »experiential gastronomy« sometimes still has a bourgeois image—one quickly thinks of mediocre food with a mediocre show—some courageous restaurateurs have elevated the dining experience to a true art form with creatively designed multi-sensory concepts. Here, guests experience a symphony based on the interaction of visual elements, sound, texture and, of course, flavor alongside their meal. From the architectural design of the restaurant to the smallest details.
Chef Anika Madsen’s creations are creative and original, based on her passion for local seafood and her commitment to sustainability.
Two pioneering Nordic establishments, Iris in Norway and Alchemist in Denmark, are regarded as trailblazers for such experiences that go far beyond the plate, as is Ultraviolet, located in a secret location in Shanghai, where top chef Paul Pairet takes his guests on a journey through memories and expectations. When exploring these three unique restaurants, it quickly becomes clear that cooking today is part of an artistic symbiosis in many places. It is enjoyed with all the senses.
BECOMING ONE WITH THE ENVIRONMENT
Nestled in the dramatic landscape of Norway, the restaurant Iris truly sets new standards in top gastronomy with its »Expedition Dining« approach. Architecturally, Iris can already claim to offer something spectacular: A floating metal construction with a dynamic curved shape, in the middle of the Norwegian fjord and only accessible by boat, houses the premises of the luxury restaurant. The impressive architecture and the panoramic view of the rugged Norwegian wilderness quickly give you the feeling that you are dining at the end of the world, which is not entirely wrong, because even from the nearest airport in Bergen, the journey to the restaurant is still a half-day trip. »I wanted to create an experience that allows guests to fully immerse themselves in the beauty of Norwegian nature. Food is a gateway to this. By tasting local ingredients, feeling the sea breeze or seeing the mountains in the distance, all the guests’ senses are engaged. This multi-sensory approach allows us to connect people not only with the flavors, but also with the stories behind each dish, so that a visit to our restaurant is more than just a meal, but an exploration of place, time and culture«, restaurant manager and head chef Anika Madsen describes her not inexpensive concept in an interview with Chapter. The evening at Iris begins for each guest with a boat trip to a jetty on a tiny island, where the first drinks and starters are served to music specially arranged for the evening, before the culinary journey continues to the restaurant itself. You should plan around six hours if you want to embark on this extraordinary experience.
Spectacular in every respect: The restaurant Iris, under the leadership of head chef Anika Madsen and service manager Nico Danielsen, was recently awarded its first Michelin star.
The restaurant is located in the middle of the water—in the Salmon Eye art installation, which opened in 2022 and is a place to explore topics such as sustainable aquaculture. Created by Kvorning Design, the 14-metre-high structure is reminiscent of the eponymous fish eye and appears to float in the middle of the fjord surrounded by spectacular mountains. The 9,275 stainless steel scales that clad the building imitate the shiny, silvery skin of a salmon. The menu at Iris reads like a poetic homage to the rugged beauty of Norway. Wild herbs, foraged mushrooms and freshly caught seafood—Madsen’s main criterion when it comes to deciding which dishes to serve is quite simple. »When it comes to flavors, I end up cooking for myself, if I don’t like it, it doesn’t go on the menu.« Furthermore, Anika Madsen firmly believes in the combination of good craftsmanship, hard work and curiosity. Whereby the latter is not just about a curious and open approach to food and new taste experiences. »I also mean an open attitude towards one’s own environment, nature and people.« However, as an evening at Iris is so much more than just the food served, Madsen also emphasizes the importance of her team for the overall concept: »Each and every member of our team has unique talents. One employee may compose music, while another may have exceptional graphic design skills. We trust each other’s creative vision and this trust allows us to create and constantly develop.« Anika Madsen can therefore largely do without the services of external consultancies or creative agencies, despite the far-reaching, detailed concept, she explains.
However, creativity is not the only factor that matters in her job, the Danish-born chef and former head chef of Copenhagen’s Michelin-starred restaurant Fasangården is convinced. »A strong sense of responsibility is just as important.« She follows up: »As chefs, we not only influence what people eat, but also have an impact on how they think about food, its production and the environment. Iris should not only be a place that takes the restaurant experience itself to a new level, but should also play a pioneering role in terms of responsibility—not only in terms of how we handle food, but also in terms of how we define collaboration. Perhaps we will succeed in inspiring future generations.«
THEATRICAL POETRY OF FOOD
At the Alchemist restaurant in Copenhagen, under the aegis of Rasmus Munk, food becomes a medium for storytelling. The chef’s aim is to make his guests think through a sensory adventure. At Alchemist, every dish is a work of art, every moment in the restaurant is carefully orchestrated and nothing is left to chance. Munk explains that his approach, which he calls »Holistic Dining«, is a fusion of gastronomy, art, science and social responsibility: »Our aim is to create an experience that stimulates the senses and awakens memories.« The Alchemist is therefore not just about satisfying hedonistic cravings, Munk wants to use his platform to express his opinion on socially relevant topics and issues, and also sees provocation as an appropriate means of doing so. A visit to Alchemist should encourage people to think about globally relevant topics such as sustainability, food waste and ethics. »In particular, our mission is to drive change and influence the society in which we live. Artists can provoke, spark debate and raise awareness. Of course, the taste of each dish is always the focus, but our visual and verbal presentations can address subjects such as child labor in the chocolate industry or famine in the Global South«, Rasmus Munk emphasizes in an interview with Chapter.
At the Alchemist restaurant in Copenhagen, under the aegis of Rasmus Munk, food becomes a medium for storytelling.
Architecturally, Alchemist is a universe in itself. The 50-course menu—no, you haven’t misread—is presented theatrically in the truest sense of the word, in several acts. A dome-shaped ceiling, reminiscent of a planetarium, bathes the room in surreal light, changing colors and various projections are coordinated with each course. Alchemist was designed by London-based interior design studio Duncalf and is spread over three floors in a labyrinthine fashion, each with a slightly different spatial concept. The majority of the culinary journey takes place directly under the aforementioned dome with a total diameter of 18 meters. Around 200 tons of steel were used. The rooms in which Alchemist is located used to serve as a workshop for the construction of stage sets. To a certain extent, the theatricality of the place is inscribed in it. When he develops a dish, its history and meaning are initially in the foreground. »That is always the first step«, explains Munk and adds: »Of course, it is then also about perfecting the taste. If the taste isn’t what I want it to be, we won’t serve the dish—even if the idea is perfect and it looks exceptionally beautiful. On the other hand, I just love to develop something that has a strong message. So if the message is strong, I will always go to great lengths to bring the dish to that level in terms of taste.«
Rasmus Munk ensures with his Restaurant Alchemist has caused a worldwide sensation. His dishes are spectacular in both taste and appearance and are garnished with strong messages.
With a multidisciplinary team—experts from the fields of gastronomy, science, design, art, technology
and business are involved—Rasmus Munk is also responsible for the visionary Spora Innovation Center.
The fact that Alchemist is more than just a restaurant is also made clear by the composition of the staff. In addition to the gastronomic team, Munk employs three artists who design the special effects for the restaurant’s dome, as well as a composer, a scriptwriter and an industrial designer who creates the restaurant’s crockery and cutlery and various furnishings. But that’s not all: Rasmus Munk is also responsible for the Spora Innovation Centre, which specializes in initiating far-reaching changes in the catering and food industry. The project is managed by a multidisciplinary team—experts from the fields of gastronomy, science, design, art, technology and business are involved. »Spora is the natural evolution of the Alchemist. The creativity and innovative power that characterize our work in the restaurant also play a central role in our research work and contribute to the development of new, sustainable approaches«, explains Munk.
GREAT CINEMA FOR ALL SENSES
A secret place »Somewhere in Shanghai«, ten guests and 20 courses—these are the basic hard facts about Paul Pairet’s top restaurant Ultraviolet. However, on the foundation of these initially sober facts, something outstanding unfolds: an immersive dining experience that appeals to all the senses. At the center of a windowless room is a single table, surrounded by huge HD screens. However, it is not only the visual component that plays an elementary role in Ultraviolet, but also the smell, the music and the sound carpet on which the guests glide through the evening. »Each course is enveloped in an atmosphere that is defined by the projection, the sound and sometimes even the smell«, says Pairet in an interview with CNN. In some cases, the room temperature is also adapted to the atmosphere. A different world opens up with every walk—if you have just been in a place covered in glowing neon graffiti, the next moment you are part of an underground labyrinth.
Born in Perpignan, France, celebrity chef Paul Pairet currently runs four restaurants in Shanghai:
Mr & Mrs Bund, Polux, Charbon and Ultraviolet.
Paul Pairet’s innovative restaurant concept opened in May 2012, and Ultraviolet was awarded three stars in the Michelin Guide in 2018. At the time of opening, however, the concept had already been in the mind of the French-born top chef for 15 years. In culinary terms, guests can expect an extremely sophisticated play with textures, temperatures and breaking with preconceived expectations. Naturally at the highest level. When Pairet develops new dishes, he is always looking for a connection to his own life—be it trips he has taken, certain memories or episodes from everyday life. Pairet’s aim is to really draw people into the individual courses so that they can fully engage with the experience and immerse themselves in what he understands by »Psycho Taste«: an exploration and questioning of our notions of taste, which are mostly based on memory, experience and culture. »We always hope that we have left a lasting impression on our guests—that our food has awakened and created memories. I don’t believe that something can be beautiful if it doesn’t leave a mark. We can’t control that, but we hope that these lasting impressions are created in the minds of the guests«, says Pairet. (Interview with Four Magazine https://www.four-magazine.com/chefs/paul-pairet-association-of-taste/)
»Psycho taste« is what Paul Pairet calls the multivision concept surrounding his avant-garde fine dining creations.
Iris, Alchemist and Ultraviolet—these gourmet restaurants are world-famous travel destinations in their own right for a reason, culinary experiences have been elevated to multi-sensory works of art. In each of these luxury restaurants, an outstanding dish is not just something you enjoy, but something you live. Architecture and visual design, acoustics, smells and textures become the main protagonists. A dinner at Alchemist, Iris or Ultraviolet may not be for every day, as impressions need to be processed, but by involving all the senses, dining here becomes a truly unforgettable experience and is well worth the trip.
ARTICLE FIRST PUBLISHED IN CHAPTER №XI »TASTEMAKERS« — WINTER 2024/25
