The wristwatch is one of those objects in which design, craftsmanship and technical precision converge with particular clarity. Ultimate Collector Watches, the two-volume compendium published by TASCHEN, explores this intersection through a comprehensive survey of 130 years of wristwatch history.
When asked what luxury means today, a striking number of people answer with a single word: time. Usually, this refers to the physical quantity that measures the sequence of events—the succession of moments, hours, days, weeks, and months. Iconic and technically innovative wristwatches are therefore a luxury item in a double sense. They possess the power to give tangible form to this measurable yet deeply subjective dimension. At the same time, they serve as an analog counterbalance to our fully digitized present.
»Let’s be honest: In a world dominated by digital technology, nobody needs a mechanical watch anymore. Just like we don’t need Impressionist paintings or handmade Italian convertibles with V12 engines sculpted by Pininfarina. But need is the wrong word. What we seek is emotion—something no mass-produced gadget could ever give. These mechanical marvels connect us to a time when artistry came before efficiency, when things were made to be beautiful, meaningful, and lasting«, writes Aurel Bacs, Senior Consultant at Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo, in his foreword to the two-volume TASCHEN picture book Ultimate Collector Watches. Curated and designed by Charlotte and Peter Fiell, the compendium is dedicated to the history of mechanical watchmaking—with all its ruptures, innovations, breakthroughs, and developments.
The first volume begins with an excursion into the history of timekeeping, which is closely linked to the development of horology. Water clocks, sundials, medieval tower clocks, and eventually pocket watches all played decisive roles on the path toward the wristwatch. The first modern wristwatch emerged in the late 19th century. »The earliest known mention of the noun ›wristwatch‹ – a very logical and straightforward contraction, it has to be said—is attributed to Robert Baden-Powell, the founder of the Boy Scouts and Girl Guides, in his writings in 1897. This came a whole five years after the making of the 1892 Louis Brandt & Frère Minute Repeater, which is the first timepiece featured in our selection, as presented over the coming pages, of 100 of the world’s most collectable wristwatches«, Charlotte and Peter Fiell write in their introduction.
They spent two years compiling the list of one hundred wristwatches in total. »To give a sense of the selection-honing process, there were over 30 different iterations of our master inclusions list, but from experience we knew that that is what it takes when working on such an ambitious collecting-focused project.«
At the heart of the two-volume compendium are these one hundred exceptional watches from history, photographed with great care and effort from multiple perspectives. In addition, the genesis of each wristwatch is examined in detail. Readers encounter iconic timepieces such as the Cartier Tank or the legendary Rolex Daytona Paul Newman, alongside rare works by independent watchmakers, prototypes, and one-off pieces. Rare vintage chronographs by Patek Philippe, Rolex, and Vacheron Constantin are scrutinized just as closely as contemporary luxury models. With the Chronomètre Contemporain, the list also includes a watch by the young watchmaker Rexhep Rexhepi, widely regarded as the new favorite of the Swiss watchmaking scene. Interviews with figures from the international collectors’ community round out this journey through the world of the most legendary wristwatches.
Ultimate Collector Watches is not simply a reference work, but a book that seeks to erect an impressive monument to the connection between art and craftsmanship. It makes clear why mechanical watches occupy a special place in the digital world—perhaps even experiencing a renaissance. Time and again, they remind their owners that time itself is a luxury one should pay attention to. [Ed.]
Ultimate Collector Watches
Hardcover, 2 volumes in slipcase, 28.1 x 36 cm, 960 pages
taschen.com
